Yanagiba Knife: How the Sashimi Blade Works (2026 Guide)

By Japanese Knife Lab Editorial Team
Published: · Updated: · 18 min read
A very slender yanagiba whose long, nearly straight edge rises to a sharp point, with a pale octagonal wooden handle on light grey
Illustration
Table of Contents

The yanagiba (柳刃包丁, "willow blade knife") is the quintessential Japanese sashimi knife — a long, slender, single-bevel blade designed for one purpose: slicing raw fish into flawless pieces. Every sushi restaurant in Japan relies on a yanagiba, and it remains the single most important knife in a sashimi chef's toolkit. Its name comes from the blade's resemblance to a willow leaf (yanagi), and the style is generally traced to the Edo period.

What Is a Yanagiba Knife?

This guide explains how the yanagiba works and how to choose one across several price ranges. The recommendations below are based on makers' published specifications — steel, blade length and finish — and on price; we have not cut with these knives ourselves.

The yanagiba is a long, narrow, single-bevel knife purpose-built for slicing raw fish. Unlike Western slicing knives that use a back-and-forth sawing motion, the yanagiba is designed for a single, uninterrupted pulling stroke — you draw the entire blade length through the fish in one motion, from heel to tip. This technique, called hiki-giri (引き切り), produces mirror-smooth cuts that preserve cell structure, preventing the fish from turning mushy or losing moisture.

Key characteristics of the yanagiba:

  • Single bevel (kataba) — sharpened on the right side only (for right-handed users), creating an extremely acute cutting edge
  • Long, narrow blade — typically 240-330mm, enabling full-length pulling strokes
  • Spine taper — thick at the heel for rigidity, tapering to a thin, precise tip
  • Flat back (ura) — a concave hollow on the back side that reduces friction and helps food release
  • Pointed tip — for decorative cuts, scoring, and precision detail work

What the Name Means

Yanagiba is pronounced yah-nah-gee-bah. The full name, yanagiba bōchō (柳刃包丁), translates as "willow blade knife": yanagi is willow, ba is blade and bōchō is kitchen knife. Shops and chefs often shorten it to yanagi, and the same knife is also sold as a sashimi bōchō (刺身包丁, "sashimi knife") or shobu bōchō. Strictly, the yanagiba is the Kansai (Osaka) style; its Tokyo counterpart is the takohiki, covered in Yanagiba Styles below.

History & Origin

The yanagiba developed in the Kansai region (Osaka-Kyoto area) during the Edo period (1603-1868), when sashimi culture flourished in Japan's merchant cities. As raw fish preparation became an art form, chefs needed a knife that could produce clean, glistening slices — and the yanagiba was their answer.

In the Kanto region (Tokyo area), a related knife called the takobiki (蛸引き) evolved with a squared-off tip and flatter profile. Both serve the same purpose — slicing sashimi — and today the yanagiba is the more commonly used of the two. The takobiki is still used, mainly in the Kanto region around Tokyo.

The craft of making yanagiba knives centers in Sakai, Osaka, where bladesmiths have forged kitchen knives since the 16th century. Sakai remains the premier production center, though Seki (Gifu), Tsubame-Sanjo (Niigata), and Takefu (Fukui) also produce excellent yanagiba knives.

Yanagiba Styles: Takohiki, Fuguhiki, Kiritsuke & Sakimaru

Shop listings use several names for long sashimi knives. All of them are single-bevel slicers built for the same pulling cut; they differ in tip shape, blade height and thickness.

StyleTipHow it differs from a standard yanagibaMade for
Yanagiba (Kansai)Pointed, willow-leafThe reference shape. It originated in the Kansai (Osaka) region and is the most commonly used sashimi knife.All-round sashimi and sushi toppings
Takohiki (also spelled takobiki; Kanto)SquareThe Tokyo variant: lighter, thinner, flatter and shallower in blade height. The name is literally "octopus cutter" (tako is octopus).Sashimi in the Tokyo tradition
Fuguhiki (also fugubiki)Varies by makerNarrower and ground much thinner. One 270mm Aritsugu fugubiki measured by zknives.com (bought in 2008) is 27mm wide and 2.71mm thick at the heel, against 34–37mm for a typical yanagiba's width. Usually 240–300mm long.Tessa: fugu (pufferfish) sashimi cut usu-zukuri, thin enough for the plate's pattern to show through
Kiritsuke yanagiba (also sold as a "K-tip" sashimi knife)Angled and sharply pointed (a clipped, "reverse tanto" point)The tip is more angular than the curved willow-leaf tip; sellers describe it as giving more precision for detailed and decorative cuts. Sold from about 210mm to 330mm.Sashimi plus detailed finishing and presentation work
Sakimaru (yanagiba or takohiki)Rounded, like the kissaki of a Japanese swordCombines the Kansai yanagiba with the Kanto takohiki. The blade is thicker and heavier, and it usually costs more than a standard yanagiba of the same length. The round tip is less suited to highly precise work.Long draw cuts

Do not confuse the kiritsuke yanagiba with the kiritsuke itself. The kiritsuke is a larger hybrid with the length of a yanagiba and the blade height and profile of an usuba vegetable knife. For a first sashimi knife, the standard yanagiba is the default: it is the most widely used style, while the fuguhiki is the most specialized and less suited to general-purpose fish preparation.

Single-Bevel Design

The defining feature of a yanagiba is its single-bevel (kataba) edge geometry. Unlike double-bevel knives that are sharpened symmetrically on both sides, the yanagiba has:

  • Omote (表, front face) — the beveled side, ground at approximately 10-15° to form the cutting edge. This is where you sharpen.
  • Ura (裏, back face) — the flat side with a subtle concave hollow (urasuki). This concavity reduces surface contact with the food, minimizing drag and aiding clean release.

This asymmetry gives the yanagiba two critical advantages for sashimi. First, the acute single bevel produces an edge that is sharper than any double-bevel knife can achieve — important when cutting through delicate raw fish without tearing fibers. Second, the flat back naturally guides the blade in a straight path, allowing chefs to produce perfectly uniform slices.

The tradeoff: single-bevel knives are hand-specific. A right-handed yanagiba cannot be used left-handed (the bevel would push the blade away from the cutting line). Left-handed versions exist but are rarer, often special order, and typically cost about 50% more: Korin, Japanese Chef's Knife and Kabuki Knives all charge 1.5 times the right-handed price.

How to Use a Yanagiba

Correct technique is essential with a yanagiba. The fundamental rule: one stroke, one cut.

The Pulling Stroke (Hiki-Giri)

  1. Position the heel of the blade at the far edge of the fish fillet, with the blade angled slightly away from you.
  2. Draw the blade toward you in a single, smooth motion, using the full length of the blade from heel to tip.
  3. Let the weight of the knife do the work — apply minimal downward pressure. The sharpness of the blade and the length of the stroke do the cutting.
  4. Complete the stroke through the tip — the slice should separate cleanly as the tip exits the fish.

Never saw back and forth. Each slice should be accomplished in one pull. This preserves the cellular structure of the fish, resulting in a glistening, smooth surface that looks and tastes better. Multiple strokes create microscopic tears that make the fish appear dull and release moisture.

Common Sashimi Cuts

  • Hira-zukuri (平造り) — standard rectangular slices, 8-10mm thick. The most common sashimi cut.
  • Usu-zukuri (薄造り) — paper-thin translucent slices for whitefish (fugu, hirame). Requires exceptional knife sharpness and control.
  • Sogi-zukuri (そぎ造り) — angled slices, drawn diagonally across the grain to maximize surface area.
  • Ito-zukuri (糸造り) — thin julienne strips for garnish or squid preparation.

What Else Can a Yanagiba Cut?

Slicing sashimi is the yanagiba's job, but it handles a few other fish tasks, and there are things it should never touch.

  • Skinning fillets — the long edge can take the skin off a fillet in one smooth pull.
  • Filleting small to medium fish — using the same pull-slicing motion. For breaking down whole fish through bones and heads, use a deba, which is thick and heavy for exactly that work; the yanagiba is for finishing the boneless portions.
  • Thin slices of boneless meat — experienced chefs sometimes carve roasts or slice meat very thinly with it, but it is not a general-purpose knife. If you slice cooked meat often, the double-bevel sujihiki is the better tool (see Yanagiba vs Sujihiki).

What to avoid: bones and other hard materials. Dense vegetables are a poor match too: in something like a sweet potato, the one-sided grind steers the blade off line and the blade wedges in the food. Very hard cutting boards dull the fine edge faster, so pair the knife with a softer board — see our cutting board guide.

Specifications

SpecificationDetail
Blade Length240-330mm (270mm standard)
Bevel TypeSingle bevel (kataba) — right-handed standard
Steel OptionsShirogami #1/#2, Aogami #2/Super, Ginsan, VG-10
Weight RangeAbout 140-260g for 240-330mm (varies by length and steel)
Blade ProfileLong, narrow, pointed tip — willow leaf shape
Handle StyleTraditional wa-handle (D-shape or octagonal)
Best ForSashimi, sushi neta, raw fish slicing, decorative cuts

Size Guide

LengthBest ForUser Level
240mm (9.4")Home kitchen, small fish fillets, beginnersBeginner to intermediate
270mm (10.6")All-purpose sashimi, most fish types — the standard sizeIntermediate to professional
300mm (11.8")Large fish, professional sushi countersProfessional
330mm (13")Tuna, very large fillets, high-volume sushi restaurantsExpert professional

Our recommendation: For a home kitchen, start with 240mm — retailer guides describe it as the more manageable home length. 270mm is the length most popular with professionals; choose it if you regularly slice medium to large fillets and have a board long enough for full pulling strokes.

Yanagiba vs Sujihiki

The yanagiba and sujihiki (筋引き) are both long slicing knives, but they differ fundamentally in design and purpose.

FeatureYanagibaSujihiki
BevelSingle bevelDouble bevel
Primary UseRaw fish (sashimi, sushi)Raw fish + cooked proteins
Cut Quality on SashimiSuperior — cleaner, smoother surfaceVery good, slightly below yanagiba
VersatilitySpecialist (raw fish only)Versatile (raw + cooked)
SharpeningSingle-bevel technique requiredStandard double-bevel sharpening
HandednessRight or left specificAmbidextrous
WeightHeavier (thicker spine)Lighter (thinner profile)

Choose a yanagiba if sashimi is your primary focus and you are willing to learn single-bevel sharpening. Choose a sujihiki if you need one knife that handles both raw fish and roasted meats, or if you prefer easier maintenance.

Steel Types

Steel choice is critical for a yanagiba because the blade must hold an extremely keen edge for clean sashimi cuts. Here are the most common options:

Shirogami (White Steel)

White #2 is the most popular steel for yanagiba knives. Pure carbon steel with no added alloys — it takes the sharpest possible edge and is the easiest carbon steel to sharpen. White #1 is the harder, more refined version that holds its edge longer but is more brittle. Professional sushi chefs who sharpen daily overwhelmingly prefer White Steel for the purest cutting feel.

Aogami (Blue Steel)

Blue #2 adds chromium and tungsten to the carbon steel formula, resulting in better edge retention and slightly more toughness. Blue Super (Aogami Super) pushes this further with even longer edge life. The tradeoff: Blue Steel is slightly harder to sharpen and does not achieve quite the same level of ultimate keenness as White Steel. Best for users who want to sharpen less frequently.

Stainless Options

Ginsan (Silver #3) is the stainless steel closest in performance to carbon steel — it takes a very good edge and is significantly easier to maintain. VG-10 offers more corrosion resistance but feels less refined on the stone. For home cooks who don't want to worry about rust and patina, stainless yanagiba knives are practical, though serious sashimi enthusiasts usually prefer carbon.

Single-Bevel Sharpening

Sharpening a yanagiba requires a different technique from double-bevel knives. The single-bevel geometry must be maintained precisely, or the knife loses its cutting performance.

Sharpening the Bevel Side (Omote)

  1. Soak your whetstone (1000-grit) for 10-15 minutes.
  2. Place the bevel flat against the stone — the entire ground surface should make contact. This is approximately 10-15°.
  3. Apply even pressure with three fingers spread across the blade and draw the blade forward and backward along the full length of the stone.
  4. Work from tip to heel in sections, spending equal time on each section.
  5. Continue until you feel a consistent burr (kaeri) along the entire edge on the flat side.

Deburring the Flat Side (Ura)

  1. Flip the knife and lay the flat side completely flat on the stone — do not raise the spine.
  2. Make 2-3 light, gentle strokes to remove the burr. That is all.
  3. Over-grinding the ura destroys the concave hollow and ruins the knife's geometry. Less is more.

Polishing

Repeat the process on a 3000-grit stone, then optionally on a 6000-grit stone for a mirror polish. The finer the finish, the cleaner the cut on delicate fish. Many sushi chefs polish to 6000-8000 grit for whitefish preparation.

Maintenance & Care

Single-bevel carbon steel yanagiba knives require diligent care. Here is what sushi professionals do daily:

  • Wipe dry immediately after every use — carbon steel rusts within minutes when wet. Keep a dry cloth next to your cutting board.
  • Clean with a soft sponge and mild soap — never use abrasive scrubbers or dishwashers.
  • Apply camellia oil (tsubaki oil) before storage — a thin coat prevents oxidation. Wipe off before use.
  • Store in a saya (wooden sheath) or on a magnetic knife rack — never in a drawer where the edge can contact other metal.
  • Develop the patina — carbon steel naturally forms a dark patina (oxidation layer) that actually protects the steel. Don't try to remove it.
  • Sharpen regularly — for home use (weekly sashimi), sharpen every 2-4 weeks. Professional chefs sharpen before every service.

Choosing Your First Yanagiba

Five decisions shape a first yanagiba purchase. Work through them in this order:

  1. Which hand. Right-handed is the default. Left-handed yanagiba are made in far smaller numbers: Korin, Japanese Chef's Knife and Kabuki Knives each list them at 1.5 times the right-handed price, with lead times quoted from about a month to more than six months when not in stock. If you need one, order early — see our left-handed Japanese knives guide.
  2. Length. For a home kitchen the choice is usually 240mm or 270mm. Retailer guides describe 240mm as the more manageable home length and 270mm as the length most popular with professionals. The size guide above covers the longer blades.
  3. Steel. Carbon steel (white or blue) or stainless — a trade-off between edge quality and maintenance, explained in Steel Types and our Aogami vs Shirogami comparison.
  4. Construction. A traditional yanagiba pairs a hard high-carbon steel edge with a soft iron body, following Japanese swordsmithing methods; the iron makes the blade tougher and easier to sharpen. Listings call this laminated construction kasumi ("misty", after the look of the iron once sharpened), with hon-kasumi the higher grade. Honyaki blades are forged from a single piece of carbon steel with differential hardening, and mono-steel blades like these are usually harder to sharpen. More in Honyaki vs Kasumi.
  5. Handle and saya. A traditional wa handle is ho wood friction-fitted to a hidden tang, with a buffalo horn or metal collar capping the joint to reduce splitting, so it can be replaced easily. A wooden saya (sheath) protects the edge in storage.

For specific models by budget, see our best yanagiba knives roundup.

Our Recommendations

Best Budget: Sakai Takayuki Kasumitogi Yanagiba (270mm) — ~$150

White #3 steel (Yasugi Shirogami #3, per the maker) clad in soft iron, with a traditional kasumi (mist) finish, made in Sakai. Beautiful blade with excellent edge characteristics. The soft-iron cladding develops a distinctive patina over time. A knife that performs at professional levels without the professional price tag.

Best Mid-Range: Tojiro Shirogami Yanagiba (270mm) — ~$200

White #2 carbon steel clad in soft iron, with a simple magnolia handle. It is sold as a 270mm knife, but one retailer measures the blade at about 258mm. The blade takes an excellent edge and responds well to sharpening. A sound choice for learning single-bevel technique without a large investment.

Best Premium: Masamoto KS Yanagiba (270mm) — ~$400–500

White #2 steel clad in soft iron, from Tokyo's Masamoto Sohonten, one of the longest-established names in Japanese professional knives. Retailer listings disagree on whether the KS line is made in Tokyo or Sakai. Exceptional fit and finish, perfectly balanced, and takes an edge that makes whitefish preparation effortless. A lifetime investment for serious sashimi practice.

Best Stainless: Suisin Inox Honyaki Yanagiba (270mm) — ~$600–800

Swedish INOX stainless steel (Suisin does not publish the exact grade; retailers list about 61 HRC), ideal for home cooks who want yanagiba performance without carbon steel maintenance. Strongly rust-resistant, easy to sharpen, and produces very clean cuts. The low-maintenance option, though the most expensive pick here.

Travelling to Japan? You can make your own knife near Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka or Nagoya. Compare all nine knife-making workshops in Japan →

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a yanagiba knife used for?

A yanagiba is designed for slicing raw fish (sashimi) and cutting sushi toppings (neta). Its long, narrow, single-bevel blade allows you to cut through a fish fillet in one continuous pulling stroke, producing mirror-smooth slices that preserve the texture and freshness of the fish. It is not a general-purpose knife — it is a specialist tool for raw fish preparation.

Can beginners use a yanagiba knife?

Yes, but with a learning curve. The single-bevel edge behaves differently from double-bevel knives — it tends to steer away from the flat side during cutting. Beginners should start with a 240mm yanagiba (shorter is easier to control) and practice the single pulling stroke on salmon or tuna before attempting delicate whitefish. Learning to sharpen single-bevel knives is essential, so invest in a 1000-grit and 3000-grit whetstone from the start.

What is the difference between a yanagiba and a sujihiki?

The yanagiba is single-bevel and designed exclusively for slicing raw fish. The sujihiki is double-bevel and works for both raw fish and cooked proteins (roasts, ham, smoked salmon). The yanagiba produces cleaner cuts on sashimi due to its single-bevel geometry, but the sujihiki is more versatile and easier to sharpen. Choose a yanagiba for dedicated sashimi work; choose a sujihiki if you need one knife for all slicing tasks.

What size yanagiba should I buy?

The standard professional size is 270mm (10.6"). For home use, 240mm (9.4") is easier to handle and store. Longer blades (300-330mm) are used by experienced sushi chefs for large fish and for achieving longer, uninterrupted pulling strokes. For most home cooks a 240mm yanagiba is the best first choice; move to 270mm if you regularly slice large fillets and have the board space.

How do you sharpen a single-bevel yanagiba?

Sharpen the beveled side (omote) at approximately 10-15° on a 1000-grit stone, then polish on a 3000-6000 grit stone. For the flat side (ura), lay the blade completely flat on the stone and make only a few light passes to remove the burr — never raise the spine. Over-grinding the ura ruins the knife's geometry. Finish by stropping on newspaper or leather. Single-bevel sharpening requires practice; consider professional sharpening for your first few sessions.

What is the best steel for a yanagiba knife?

Shirogami (White Steel) #2 is the most popular choice — it takes an extremely keen edge, is easy to sharpen, and is the traditional standard for sashimi knives. Aogami (Blue Steel) #2 offers better edge retention with slightly more difficulty in sharpening. For low-maintenance use, Ginsan (Silver #3) provides stainless properties while approaching carbon steel performance. Professional sushi chefs overwhelmingly prefer White #1 or White #2 for the purest cutting feel.

What does yanagiba mean?

Yanagiba (pronounced yah-nah-gee-bah) is short for yanagiba bōchō (柳刃包丁), "willow blade knife", after the blade's long, slender willow-leaf shape. It is often shortened to yanagi, and the same knife is also sold as a sashimi bōchō (sashimi knife) or shobu bōchō. The yanagiba is the Kansai (Osaka) style; the square-tipped Tokyo equivalent is the takohiki.

What is the difference between a yanagiba, a takohiki and a fuguhiki?

All three are single-bevel sashimi slicers. The yanagiba is the Kansai (Osaka) style with a pointed willow-leaf tip, and it is the most commonly used. The takohiki is the Tokyo variant: lighter, thinner, flatter and lower in blade height, with a square tip. The fuguhiki is narrower and ground much thinner, made for slicing fugu (pufferfish) into near-transparent tessa. See Yanagiba Styles for the kiritsuke and sakimaru variants as well.

Do I need a yanagiba to make sushi at home?

No. A sharp double-bevel gyuto or a long santoku will slice fish for home sushi. What a yanagiba adds is a cleaner cut surface and the ability to finish each slice in one pull, without sawing. It is worth buying if you want restaurant-style presentation, for example when serving guests; for everyday home sushi, a sharp gyuto or slicer you already own may be enough. Our best knives for sushi guide compares the options.

Are left-handed yanagiba knives available?

Yes. A left-handed yanagiba is ground as a mirror image, with the bevel on the other face. They are made in far smaller numbers than right-handed knives, so they are often special-order items: Korin, Japanese Chef's Knife and Kabuki Knives each list left-handed versions at 1.5 times (50% more than) the right-handed price, with quoted lead times ranging from about a month to more than six months when the knife is not in stock. Order well ahead. See our left-handed Japanese knives guide.

Why is a yanagiba sharpened on only one side?

Grinding the edge on one side only allows a more acute edge angle than a symmetrical edge, so the blade can pass through raw fish without tearing it. The other face is hollow-ground (the urasuki), which reduces contact with the fish and helps each slice release from the blade. The trade-off is that the knife is handed and needs single-bevel sharpening. More in our single vs double bevel guide.